A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a stable and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Conserve this for later on.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a constant but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to finish.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various accessories including drill bits.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just undo and repeat the procedure again till its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact result every time.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you buy.

Fixing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Fixing:.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Also do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *