A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing each time.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

Conserve this for later.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Fixing:.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate result whenever.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.

Beginning to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

Repairing:.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to end up.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Piercing.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.

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