A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. The table listed below consists of all the info you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Setting up a blade into a saw:

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Piercing.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an accurate result every time.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the tension is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Beginning to Saw:.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to move a more complex design onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

Repairing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Fixing:.

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