A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing whenever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the info you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various attachments including drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Repairing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an exact outcome every time.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a constant however gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to complete.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Fixing:.

Conserve this for later on.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Tools for Piercing: There are many various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to show the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process again up until its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you wish to move a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

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