Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below consists of all the details you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an accurate result each time.
Beginning to Saw:.
Tools for Piercing: There are numerous various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the very same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the procedure once again up until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
Conserve this for later on.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). If you want to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to complete.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.