A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.

Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds unlimited possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing whenever.

Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Installing a blade into a saw:

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to transfer a more complicated design onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Fixing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise outcome each time.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however continuous pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Save this for later on.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Troubleshooting:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

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