Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to personal choice.
Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Installing a blade into a saw:
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to complete.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to transfer a more complex style onto metal. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you buy.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Save this for later on.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the process once again up until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Starting to Saw:.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate result every time.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.