Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Installing a blade into a saw:
Beginning to Saw:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial series of various attachments including drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). If you desire to move a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
Save this for later.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Likewise do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you purchase.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to finish.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a gentle and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the procedure again till its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.