A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to show the tension is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process once again until its best. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an exact result every time.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you want to transfer a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Troubleshooting:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you purchase.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again as soon as sawing is total.
File to finish.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Piercing.

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My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Troubleshooting:.

Beginning to Saw:.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

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