Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale jobs, however the choice is down to personal preference.
Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper path to successful sawing every time.
Another decision you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Starting to Saw:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact outcome every time.
Conserve this for later.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is complete.
File to complete.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping just undo and repeat the process once again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). If you desire to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. The most crucial thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.