A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale jobs, however the choice is down to personal preference.

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Also dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure an accurate outcome whenever.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Troubleshooting:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Save this for later.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). If you desire to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Repairing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Beginning to Saw:.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is complete.
File to finish.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *