A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging areas.

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. The table below includes all the details you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Installing a blade into a saw:

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Starting to Saw:.

Piercing.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to end up.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you desire to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise result whenever.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Fixing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Conserve this for later.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

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