A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again as soon as sawing is complete.
Submit to complete.

Piercing.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Repairing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most crucial thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Beginning to Saw:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of different accessories including drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an exact result each time.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes best. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a stable and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Repairing:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Conserve this for later.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

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