A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into hard areas.

Sawing

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. The table below includes all the details you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most crucial thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Repairing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to complete.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different accessories including drill bits.

Piercing.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact result every time.

Repairing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

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