A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something completely different and holds limitless possibilities. Although many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have assembled this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

Starting to Saw:.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure a precise result each time.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to finish.

Save this for later on.

Repairing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again till its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different accessories including drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Piercing.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Repairing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

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