A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for small scale jobs, but the option is down to personal preference.

Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have created this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing whenever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. The table below contains all the information you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again as soon as sawing is total.
File to end up.

Beginning to Saw:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise result whenever.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Repairing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Conserve this for later on.

Piercing.

Troubleshooting:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you want to transfer a more intricate design onto metal. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

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