A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to individual preference.

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to preserve a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Fixing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Repairing:.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes best. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise outcome every time.

Starting to Saw:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.

Conserve this for later on.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again as soon as sawing is total.
File to finish.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of various attachments including drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

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