A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have created this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing whenever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general function size for small scale jobs, however the choice is down to individual preference.

Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a gentle and consistent action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments including drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Piercing.

Save this for later on.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the process once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Fixing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Repairing:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use successfully.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure a precise outcome whenever.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to complete.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

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