There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will need to select the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Installing a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various attachments including drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to complete.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes best. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure a precise outcome each time.
Save this for later on.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Starting to Saw:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.