Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to individual choice.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing each time.
There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Installing a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
Beginning to Saw:.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a stable and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). If you wish to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise result every time.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the procedure again until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use effectively.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
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The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.