A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale projects, but the option is down to individual choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below contains all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Installing a blade into a saw:

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you purchase.

Conserve this for later.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the process once again until its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a stable and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to end up.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

Starting to Saw:.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Repairing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Troubleshooting:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of various attachments including drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact result each time.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize efficiently.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

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