Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have assembled this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the info you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a stable and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to move a more complex style onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Beginning to Saw:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee a precise outcome whenever.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Conserve this for later.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to finish.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.