A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into tough areas.

Sawing

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. The table below consists of all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Piercing.

Starting to Saw:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure a precise result each time.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you purchase.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a stable and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to finish.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different accessories including drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Fixing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

Conserve this for later on.

Fixing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use effectively.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

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