There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. The table listed below consists of all the information you will require to select the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Installing a blade into a saw:
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however constant pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again once sawing is total.
File to end up.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to reveal the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and repeat the process once again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Starting to Saw:.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use successfully.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different attachments including drill bits.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an exact outcome every time.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you want to transfer a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Conserve this for later on.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.