Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. The table listed below contains all the information you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Installing a blade into a saw:
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to move a more complex style onto metal. Then prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Conserve this for later.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
File to end up.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Beginning to Saw:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you purchase.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate result whenever.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to maintain a gentle and steady action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.