Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general purpose size for small scale projects, but the option is down to personal preference.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.
Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the details you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Conserve this for later.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various attachments including drill bits.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again once sawing is complete.
File to end up.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an exact result every time.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Beginning to Saw:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a constant and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.