A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into difficult locations.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to individual choice.

Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Fixing:.

Starting to Saw:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to transfer a more intricate style onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee a precise result every time.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Save this for later on.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

Fixing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the process again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *