A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Installing a blade into a saw:

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of various accessories including drill bits.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Fixing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an accurate result every time.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to complete.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the process again till its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Save this for later.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Starting to Saw:.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Troubleshooting:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a consistent and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points). If you desire to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. When you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

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