A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds limitless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to effective sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale jobs, but the choice is down to individual choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. The table below includes all the info you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Repairing:.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to finish.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Save this for later.

Starting to Saw:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lubricant to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome whenever.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to show the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Piercing.

Fixing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more complicated style onto metal. Then prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

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