There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you buy.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use effectively.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to complete.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Beginning to Saw:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an exact outcome each time.
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Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.