A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the info you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely sufficient. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Fixing:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Likewise do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and repeat the process once again till its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to finish.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Troubleshooting:.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Piercing.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.

Starting to Saw:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an exact result whenever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Conserve this for later.

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