Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general function size for small scale tasks, but the choice is down to individual choice.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.
When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Installing a blade into a saw:
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the process again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee a precise result every time.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however continuous pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to end up.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a consistent and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Conserve this for later.