Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Installing a blade into a saw:
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate result every time.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a stable and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the proper blade size/metal combination.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to complete.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
Starting to Saw:.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Conserve this for later on.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and repeat the procedure again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.
Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you want to move a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the design onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.