Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have created this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct path to successful sawing whenever.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly great. Blades are defined by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Setting up a blade into a saw:
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant however mild pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is total.
Submit to end up.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to preserve a constant and gentle action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Starting to Saw:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use effectively.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Conserve this for later.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an exact outcome whenever.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.
The drill keeps walking around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.