A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to individual choice.

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing each time.

There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard areas.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. The most essential thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the procedure once again until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Troubleshooting:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Save this for later.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Beginning to Saw:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big range of different accessories including drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an accurate result each time.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a mild but constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to complete.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and steady action.
When the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

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