Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to personal preference.
There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
Another decision you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Save this for later on.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure a precise result whenever.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to preserve a steady and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.
Tools for Piercing: There are lots of various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most crucial thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points). If you wish to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
Starting to Saw:.
Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is total.
Submit to end up.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use successfully.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you buy.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.