Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing each time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Installing a blade into a saw:
Conserve this for later on.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to transfer a more complicated style onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a steady and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Starting to Saw:.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Likewise dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the procedure again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a mild however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to end up.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.