A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing every time.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for small scale projects, but the option is down to individual preference.

When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and can be found in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will need to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure an exact result whenever.

Fixing:.

Fixing:.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to end up.

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use efficiently.

Save this for later on.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a mild and consistent action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Piercing.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you desire to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the stress is right. If you dont hear the ping just undo and duplicate the procedure again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

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