A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first action in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Installing a blade into a saw:

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a novice.

Piercing.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you want to move a more complicated design onto metal. Before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the same. The most important thing to bear in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Beginning to Saw:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the stress is correct. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Conserve this for later.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to ensure an accurate result each time.

Repairing:.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you purchase.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is complete.
File to end up.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different attachments including drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use successfully.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Also dont be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Fixing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

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