A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the correct path to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good general purpose size for small scale jobs, however the option is down to individual preference.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into hard locations.

Sawing

Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below includes all the details you will require to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a stable and mild action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Repairing:.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes best. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Conserve this for later on.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Repairing:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
File to complete.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the pointer. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure a precise outcome each time.

Beginning to Saw:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Likewise do not be tempted to force the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of various attachments including drill bits.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

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