A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough locations.

Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for small scale tasks, but the option is down to individual preference.

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to guarantee an exact result each time.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a constant and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is complete.
File to end up.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.

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Troubleshooting:.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Troubleshooting:.

Piercing.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Beginning to Saw:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

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