A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale projects, but the choice is down to personal preference.

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. Blades are characterized by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Installing a blade into a saw:

Fixing:.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big series of different attachments including drill bits.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Conserve this for later.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes best. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability before you buy.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to finish.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate result each time.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Fixing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Beginning to Saw:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinct ping to show the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the procedure once again until its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

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