A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging locations.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below contains all the info you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Installing a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Piercing.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you buy.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial range of different attachments including drill bits.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Save this for later on.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Fixing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to end up.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

Beginning to Saw:.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and repeat the procedure once again until its ideal. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Fixing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure a precise outcome whenever.

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