A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to effective sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. The table below consists of all the info you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use effectively.

The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Fixing:.

Save this for later.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to keep a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an accurate result whenever.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

Starting to Saw:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle need to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).

Fixing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

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