A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to successful sawing every time.

Sawing

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to pick the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Also do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to complete.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the procedure once again until its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Troubleshooting:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability before you buy.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an exact result every time.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

Beginning to Saw:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Save this for later.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Piercing.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).

Fixing:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to preserve a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

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