A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental initially, which is why we have assembled this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing each time.

Sawing

There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to personal choice.

Another decision you require to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Setting up a blade into a saw:

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a consistent and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to complete.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Conserve this for later.

Piercing.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you buy.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to finish.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Fixing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Troubleshooting:.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you want to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Then before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.

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