Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic function size for small scale jobs, but the option is down to personal preference.
When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough areas.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually assembled this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Installing a blade into a saw:
The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to show the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process once again until its ideal. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
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Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes perfect. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use efficiently.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories including drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). If you want to transfer a more complicated style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, get rid of the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to end up.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Beginning to Saw:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure a precise outcome each time.