A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale projects, but the choice is down to personal preference.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), begin you off on the correct course to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to very great. The table below includes all the info you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Installing a blade into a saw:

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Conserve this for later on.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Fixing:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Piercing.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an accurate result whenever.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big variety of various accessories including drill bits.

Repairing:.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Beginning to Saw:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to finish.

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