A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first major jobs you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have created this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing whenever.

Sawing

There have been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for little scale tasks, but the option is down to individual preference.

When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most essential thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Beginning to Saw:.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Fixing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Also do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Fixing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with ought to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process once again up until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous however mild pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again once sawing is total.
File to finish.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). If you wish to transfer a more intricate design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Conserve this for later on.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Piercing.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a steady and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure a precise result each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

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