A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the first action in the improvement of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to successful sawing each time.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will require to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Installing a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use successfully.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).

Beginning to Saw:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Troubleshooting:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Fixing:.

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again as soon as sawing is total.
File to finish.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a steady and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to show the stress is proper. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process once again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you buy.

Conserve this for later on.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to make sure an exact outcome whenever.

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